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Scones at dawn: Cornwall and Devon clash over where the ‘cream tea’ was invented

Posted 24 05 2010 in: News

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Our b&b Chester has learnt that a farmer has launched a campaign to win ‘geographical protection’ for Devon cream teas - sparking a row with Cornish rivals about which county invented it.

Langage Farm manager Paul Winterton says he is hoping to win the backing of the Department for Food and Rural Affairs to take the proposal to the EU.
If he succeeds, the traditional afternoon combination of tea, scones, clotted cream and jam will become a protected brand. Our bed & breakfast Chester will certainly have a vested interest in these developments.

The regional exclusivity encompassed by EU Protected Designation of Origin is already enjoyed by Melton Mowbray pork pies in Leicestershire, and Newcastle Brown Ale.
This means it would be illegal to sell one under that name using spray cream, or if any ingredients were not made in Devon.

The cream tea already divides Cornwall and Devon, which differ regarding the order in which the ingredients are added together.

The Devon method is to split the scone in two, cover each half with clotted cream, and then add strawberry jam on top.

In Cornwall, the scone is first spread with strawberry jam, with the cream added as the topping.

Mr Winterton said: ‘There is no doubt the cream tea was first made in Devon. Of course the Cornish would claim that theirs is superior. But the truth is that Devon has been producing the ultimate cream tea for centuries.

‘[The Cornish] are just worried because it is obvious our county set the standard when it comes to the cream tea. It’s a compliment really.

‘There are differences between the two in the way they are put together but the most significant difference is in the quality of the ingredients.

‘I feel people are being short-changed. I have seen Devon cream teas with cream from a can in the Lake District, the scone was like a cake.

‘With an excellent food like the Devon cream tea, you need to know its origin. I don’t think they can refuse us. I think the placement of the ingredients is important, to distinguish it from other cream teas.’

Cream tea makers in Cornwall have reacted angrily to the idea and Mike Pearce of Cornishcream.com believes officials in Devon are simply jealous that Cornwall already has several protected products such as Cornish clotted cream and Cornish sardines.

He said yesterday: ‘There is only one cream tea, and that’s the Cornish cream tea.

‘The application should be thrown out. I don’t think Devon has the got the status that Cornwall has got for any products.’

Some historians have claimed to have found evidence of manual workers restoring Tavistock’s Benedictine Abbey in Devon being served bread, clotted cream and strawberry preserves by the monks in 1105.

However, in what could be a major blow to both counties, the UK Tea Council says the first complete cream tea was probably served in Bedford in the 19th Century.

It says the first person to serve tea, scones, jam and cream was Anna Maria Russell, Duchess of Bedford, in the mid 19th Century who served hot tea, cakes, preserves and cream to her friends.

Spokesman Bill Gorman said: ‘Devon may have problems getting protection for a Cream Tea.

‘If by definition a cream tea includes a hot cup of tea it certainly didn’t start in the 1100s.

‘Tea wasn’t served in Britain until the 17th Century and afternoon tea with cakes was first served by the Duchess of Bedford in 1841.

‘Dinner was served so late in those days she wanted an afternoon snack with her friends.’

While Devon and Cornwall fight amongst themselves, come and try the best cream teas and afternoon teas in Chester at The Coach House Hotel.
Click here for Afternoon Tea Menu

Please Continue to visit the hotel and check out our Chester Hotel Reviews

source: Daily Mail

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